The
textiles woven by Maya descendants have long been appreciated for
their beauty and sophistication. Using just a simple back-strap loom, women in Guatemalan Highlands
create intricately brocaded blouses for themselves and clothing for
their families. The textiles they produce are both, attractive and
utilitarian.
But
while these textiles can be appreciated solely for their aesthetic
value, this is an inherently limited interpretation. Mayan textiles are
much more than pretty pieces of fabric. The clothing worn on a daily
basis communicates a lot of information about the wearer, including
his or her social status in the community, his or her ethnic group, and
the area in which he or she lives.
Hundreds
of symbols have been identified in Mayan textiles. The weaver
selects a combination of symbols, like those shown below, to portray a
mythological drama, and that is why there are no two identical
weavings. From the left, symbol 1: diamonds represent the universe and
the path of the sun (the largest diamond in the center) in its daily
movement, from east (small diamond at the top) to the west (small
diamond at the bottom); symbol 2: scorpion tails representing the
lightnings; symbol 3: the Earthlord, God of the underworld; 4: a toad
representing the singings; 5: the vulture, representing the legend of
the renaissance after the great flood that destroyed the previous world.
When
interpreted in that order, the drama unfolds: while the toad sings at
the mouth of the Earthlord's mountain cave, the Earthlord's daughters
fluff cotton that will be transformed into rain clouds by a bolt of
lightning. The scorpion's spiny tail stings the lightning that attracts
the rain and produces the flowering fields.
The
outfit to the left is typical of the clothing worn by women of
Quetzaltenango, where some women continue to wear traditional clothing.
The
huipil or blouse, is constructed of three panels of cloth. Where
these panels are sewn together, the weaver embroidered multicolored
flowers. This design is also continued around the neck.
The
perraje or shawl, is woven of cotton and wool and serves multiple
purposes. It can be worn around the shoulders on a chilly day in the
highlands or folded and carried on top of the head until needed. In
some areas, it may be used to cushion a load carried on the head, or
it may be used as a carrying cloth to transport an infant or produce
from the fields.
The
corte or skirt, is made of cotton, and the fabric is typically woven
on treadle looms using the ikat technique. This skirt is made of two
lengths of cloth. The randa, or the area where the two pieces are sewn
together, is embroidered with pink, purple, yellow, and burgundy
embroidery. The darker area above the randa indicates that this skirt
was taken in to accommodate a shorter person and later let out, perhaps
as its owner grew taller.
http://ajourneythroughguatemala.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/maya-textiles-in-quetzaltenango.html
Photos: Reproduction
